Wild Wonderful Ruahine Winter

30 July, 2009

Evening at Rangiwahia

Celebrating 49 years on this earth here high up in the Ruahine and the Whanahuia ranges with John Nash. My 9th birthday enjoyed here in the wintry mountains. The years seem to pass by more quickly, the guy in the mirror feels much the same as the younger version, except more weight, less hair, aches and pains emerge more frequently. The Ruahine remains pretty much the same.

It is minus 3 Celsius outside, the ranges remain unseen covered in cloud and mist, the wind gusts over, and there is deep snow all about. Our aim is to cross over the Whanahuias and drop down to Triangle hut in the morning, then head over to the Pourangaki catchment the following day. We shall see in the morning.

Right now I am content to enjoy just being back in the mountains and to enjoy a few celebratory wee drams of fine whiskey with an equally fine friend and just be amongst this place I love.

Foot bridge on track to Rangi hut

The slip which adds a considerable climb and time to the walk to Rangi hut

A fine way to enjoy a birthday.

Up the track with bridge now below.

John climbing up Rangi track. Now that the slip is past not long at all to the open tops of the Whanahuias.

31 July Heritage Lodge

Oroua valley

Evening

John and I are now ensconced at Heritage Lodge, a 45 minute walk from the road end and just inside the Ruahine boundary and above the river. We retreated down from Rangi late in the afternoon back down to the car and drove to the road end. We sat in Rangi waiting to see if the weather might clear, which it didn't, and as the prospect of better weather tomorrow is even worse we came up with a new plan. Our attempt to cross in the morning failed.

I have crossed the Whanahuias from Rangi to Triangle over 10 times now. Many times alone and more than a few times in inclement weather, it is a route I know very well. On a fine day it is a walk to be relished, on a bad one you just put your head down and get over the tops into the forest and down to the river. Today was one of those days. It is a poled route most of the way, meaning stakes are driven into the ground every few hundred metres to mark the way across. Except for one section just beyond when the relatively distinct track peters out and the poled route picks up not far beyond. The snow was firm but deep and every few steps I would break through the surface up to my thighs, very tiring work. Worse, as we got higher the wind picked up to gales and our visibility was reduced to almost nothing. We failed to find the poled route in the mist, and roaming about on the tops trying to find a route in conditions like that simply is not a good idea. It was very beautiful actually, a very closed in world of white and tussock gold, but potentially a very deadly one as well. Even if we had found the poled route it would have been a very long and exposed three hours perhaps longer. I was very relieved when John sauntered up to me and quietly suggested today was not our day. We retreated back to Rangi, a bit subdued, a bit humbled. Late in the afternoon we decided on this new plan, as the mountain forecast looks WORSE for Saturday. And here we are.

We have just come in from the lovely porch of this very quaint, but new lodge. The old one burnt down a few years ago, and the new one rebuilt and owned by the New Zealand Deerstalkers Association. They have a large private quarters attached and this lovely 8 bunk affair open to the public. A very nice wood fire and it doesn't take much to warm this little gem. Below us the Oroua noisily rolls by, and my question to John was even if we had battled across the tops and dropped to the forest and river would the river have been cross able? It would have been a long cold night huddled in my 2 man bivouac sack with the river raging by, and the hut right in view across the river. I think we made the right decision.

Beautiful but starting to cause a bit of concern.

John in the lee of the wind where we discussed our prospects.

John heading into the featureless cloud hidden tops.

John ahead in middle of photo. Soon after the track fizzled out and the cloud closed in thicker and the wind was fierce. Today is not our day up here.

1 August 2009

Late Afternoon
Iron Gate hut

Once again John and I each walked on our own today. I left first and almost immediately it began to rain, a big steady rain, where anything and everything is wet, and the sound of water is prevalent with every whisper of wind, or stronger gales. Dripping and splashing through the forest. Stormy days seem to have more to say to me sometimes, and walking in rain I rarely find unpleasant as it seems to keep me moving. I waited for John at Tunupo creek, as it was quite discoloured and fast and wanted to make sure he would get across. Just as I started to feel a slight chill he appeared and I showed him where I crossed, we had a little chat and then I let him go ahead and we each continued our separate wild and wet nature experiences. The Oroua beside the track was just raging, a brown torrent incapable of crossing, and I thought how our decision to bale out of the tops was the right one. I am sure we would not have crossed the river yesterday, and surely not today, and then been faced with a possible trip back over the tops in even worse conditions. So this 5 hour amble along and above the river was the right choice, and the forest was vibrant and alive.

The river outside is still raging, getting higher and more angry. The rain continues to fall. The corker stove gently crackles and warms the hut. When I arrived here wet through and chilled John handed me a cup of hot tea. I am warm now.

Heading off up the Oroua valley to Iron Gate hut.

Tunupo creek in flood.

The sound of water is everywhere on these stormy days, another creek comes to life.

The Oroua in a raging flood just outside Iron gate hut, late afternoon 1 August.

John is almost the identical spot less about 14 hours later. Pretty humbling to see.

Arriving at Iron Gate, wet as can be and ready for a cup of tea.

I have to go out of town for a few days so will publish this as part one of my annual Ruahine winter trip. A different sort of trip, but learning to adapt and accept the gifts and opportunities we are blessed with in Nature is a lesson worth learning. Stay Tuned for Part Two.

Aroha.